This Smyrna restaurant is friendly, fast and budget-priced. Those good things wouldn't matter much, though, if the food didn't measure up. That it does is witnessed by the steady stream of regulars who stop in for lunch and dinner to enjoy huge portions of hearty Oklahoma-style smoked meats and simple down-home sides.
Family affair
Tucked into a strip center on Cobb Parkway, Thompson Brothers occupies a nondescript storefront space, marked by a red and black sign surrounded by a logo of painted flames. Inside, the real fire from the pit out back is pervasive in the aroma of wood smoke that wafts through the tidy, fast food-style dining room.
Originally from Tulsa, there are five Thompson brothers. But Carroll Thompson and cousin Corey Stephens run the day-to-day operation, seeing to the barbecue and manning the counter. One recent evening, Carroll took orders while Corey fixed plates and delivered them to customers, telling one, "I gave you an extra rib," and offering everyone a smile and a bit of conversation. The family atmosphere is accentuated by photos, plaques and University of Oklahoma memorabilia.
'Whole Nine' yards
Thompson Brothers' Oklahoma barbecue is sort of a hybrid of Texas, Kansas City and Memphis styles, with three kinds of sweet, ketchup-based sauces, ranging from mild to very hot. Happily, all the sauces come on the side, leaving the deeply smoked meat to stand on its own. The combo plate called "The Whole Nine" is a good way to sample several different kinds. The single ($8.79) has a quarter pound each of ribs, chopped beef brisket, beef sausage and bologna, tucked between a huge sesame seed egg bun.
The bologna is a surprisingly tasty Oklahoma tradition, unusual because whole sausages are smoked (which browns the outer casing, much like a grilled hot dog), then sliced and served up on plates and in sandwiches. The pork spare ribs are fairly well rendered, with a nice, chewy bark. Beef brisket and pork butt can be ordered sliced or chopped, and have a hefty mix of meat, fat and toothsome outer bits. Other choices include chicken, ham or pork hot links, all available in sandwich, plate or platter combinations, with a variety of sides.
On the side
Among the sides, the custard-like macaroni and cheese and the collard greens with spicy pot liquor are worthy of any decent soul food joint. Barbecue-style beans; sweet, creamy cole slaw; potato salad, and Brunswick stew round out the offerings. For dessert, there's banana pudding or hunks of homemade pineapple upside-down cake; to drink, super sweet tea, Coke products, and a few beers, including Bud on draft and Sweetwater 420 in the bottle.
At a glance
Where: 2445 Cobb Parkway S.E., Smyrna, 770-818-9098
Signature dish: "The Whole Nine" (barbecue combo)
Entree prices: $4.25-$12
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. Closed Sundays.
Reservations: No
Credit cards: Yes
Online: www.thompsonbbq.com
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