In a recycling project of the most flavorful sort, owners of The Counter in Roswell have turned a former bank into the first metro-area location and freestanding operation of a California-based burger joint. Diners may recognize the former drive-up area as the new patio, complete with garage doors that can roll up to let in the fresh air during cooler seasons.
The concept was born five years ago in Santa Monica and today there are only a handful of Counters around the country. But all serve up the same vast array of burger options. The idea is for diners to tailor their orders with the toppings that appeal to their taste buds.
"We're known for choice," general manager Mark Zolman said. "With all the ingredients we list on the menu, you can make about 312,000 combinations."
The full-service restaurant is loud and kid-friendly, with lots of rock music and skating imagery in the decor. "We're the modern answer to the classic burger joint," said Zolman. "But our music is louder and our pants, baggier."
Burger, buns ... cranberries?
First, the burger decision: one-third, two-third or 1-pound patties? "Surprisingly," Zolman says, "we go through five to 10 of the full-pound burgers every week."From there, opt for a traditional bun or one of honey wheat, an English muffin — or no bun at all, served on a bed of lettuce. Move on to the 27 toppings, including dried cranberries and hard-boiled eggs, and the 17 freshly made sauces, from apricot to sweet barbecue. Diners who find it all too overwhelming may move directly to the list of signature burgers, such as the best-selling Counter, with provolone, fried onions, sauteed mushrooms and a sun-dried tomato vinaigrette, or the set of four mini-cheeseburgers.
There's also a burger of the month that's created by the chef. Through the end of July, it's an ahi tuna burger with Korean barbecue sauce. (Last month, it was a salmon burger.) The regular menu also features a BLT, a grilled ham and cheese, a ground turkey taco, a vegan patty of brown rice and spinach and a grilled three-cheese sandwich. Turkey chili, fried pickle chips, fried onions, French fries and small salads make up the side dishes.
From the bar
Pair those big burgers with one of eight bottled or draft beers. The wine list is short and sweet, with eight reds and eight whites.Other beverage choices include floats, malts and shakes, a few made with some unlikely ingredients. "The apple pie shake really includes the apple crumb dessert we serve," Zolman said.
• Signature dish: A one-third pound traditional burger
• Entree prices: $8.50-$14.75
• Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 11 a.m. - 9 p.m. Sundays
• Reservations: No
• Credit cards: Yes
• Web site: www.thecounterburger.com

