When the COVID-19 outbreak transformed the restaurant business, some owners resisted takeout. Others embraced it — and learned to love it.
Falling into the second category is Whiskey Bird, founded three years ago by General Manager Anthony Vipond and Executive Chef Chad Crete on a Morningside block that historically has been home to a vibrant dining scene (Alon’s Bakery, Doc Chey’s, the late Partners and Indigo). When the pandemic caused the partners to pivot from in-house dining to takeout-only in mid-March, “it was like opening a whole new restaurant overnight,” Vipond recalled.
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For a stylish restaurant that began as a yakitori joint with a lively cocktail presence, the sudden switch meant new dishes had to be concocted that could travel well. The staff had to adapt to new roles, familiarize themselves with safety protocols, and learn to package food quickly and attractively.
There were glitches, naturally. But, several weeks in, the menu of fresh, appealing, wallet-friendly takeout dishes and wine slushies was such a hit that the owners decided it suggested a rebranding.
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Say hello to Whiskey Bird’s new hatchling, Little Bird. A permanent sister restaurant, with a takeout and neighborhood-delivery focus, Little Bird already has a menu; soon, it will add a designated carryout window to the North Highland storefront. The original Whiskey Bird will reopen when the owners deem it safe. Crete then will get to spread his chef ’s wings once again with more ambitious fare.
Because Little Bird takes flight at a time when many restaurant industry workers are jobless and hungry, the owners felt it important to give back. In announcing their new venture, Vipond and Crete said they will donate 1% of sales to ATL Family Meal, a new nonprofit designed to feed out-of-work hospitality-industry workers. Founded by Michael Lennox, CEO of Electric Hospitality Co. (Lady Bird, Golden Eagle, Muchacho), ATL Family Meal currently utilizes seven Atlanta restaurant kitchens to prepare and deliver 6,000 meals a week.
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Though Whiskey Bird has had to lay off about half of its 35-member team, it hopes to bring them back when operations restart.
Stopping by for curbside takeout Saturday, I could feel the special energy of Whiskey Bird. Good-natured staffers — you could see the smiles through the masks — approached my passenger window to get my name and fetch my order. Arriving early, I strolled the block with my dog, and noticed bags of takeout, labeled and ready to go, on a table by the front entrance. I even spotted the name of a friend on one package, and peevishly texted him that his Whiskey Bird dinner was ready for pickup.
Who says takeout can’t be fun?
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WHISKEY BIRD, LITTLE BIRD
Menu: The restaurant has kept its signature yakitori, sliders, tacos, and crispy Brussels sprouts with bacon, maple syrup and a fried egg, while adding snacks, a burger, a nontraditional Caesar salad and six full-meal bowls (Korean fried chicken, sesame-crusted tuna, skirt steak, pork tonkatsu, grilled salmon, veggie).
What's new: Tuesday and Sunday night family meals (fried chicken, chicken tenders, tacos, fajitas, classic Chinese-American takeout) and Friday date-night dinners for two, with a bottle of wine
Alcohol: beer and wine, including a popular frose (rose and pink-guava slushie) and Orange Dreamsicle (orange juice, coconut cream, sake and shochu), $8 a glass or $20 a quart
What I ordered: okonomiyaki fries; Little Bird Caesar; Korean fried chicken bowl; burger; chocolate-chip cookies. All the food was fresh and beautiful. Really loved the gourmet Big Mac riff, with two patties, cheddar, special sauce, pickles and slaw, and the Caesar, a global mixup of romaine, napa and purple cabbage, roasted corn, cilantro, pickled jalapenos, cotija cheese, avocado, crunchy wonton chips and spicy dressing. (It held up well for a next-day lunch). The Korean fried chicken was drenched in a sweet sauce and paired with sushi rice and pickled veggies — total keeper.Service options: curbside pickup and house-managed delivery to surrounding neighborhoods; does not partner with delivery apps
Safety protocols: follows standard CDC protocols; contact-free transactions
Address, phone: 1409 N. Highland Ave. NE, Atlanta, 404-600-5797
Hours: 4-8 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays. 4-9 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. 4-8 p.m. Sundays.
Website: eatwhiskeybird.com; littlebirdtogo.com.
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