In Season: Leeks

Nicolas Donck grows leeks at Crystal Organic Farm in Newborn just east of Atlanta. One of the founders of the Morningside Farmers’ Market, he can be found there most every Saturday morning parceling out the week’s bounty.

He had leeks for sale starting in October, and they’ll be available until the crop runs out. The cold fall and winter weather means a longer harvest season, since leeks are one of those crops that can stay in the ground during cold weather, becoming sweeter as the temperature drops.

Donck grows a variety called "King Richard," and he appreciates its long, light-colored shank. After all, the edible portions of the leek are its base and shank. The dark green leaves are usually discarded, since they can grow to be very chewy and have little flavor. The longer shank of King Richard means there’s more leek to cook with, and it also means the interior of the leek stays cleaner.

At the beginning of the year, Donck will start a new crop of leeks in his hoop houses and transplant them into the ground in February or March, ready for sale in early spring. The leek season is shorter then because our warm spring days will cause the leek to bolt, or send up a flower stalk, effectively ending its use in the kitchen.

Donck finds some customers look forward to leeks and are sad to see the season end, while others just aren’t sure what to do with them. Donck suggests soup as one of the most traditional uses, and he tells his customers they can also be used in any dish where you’d use an onion. He’s a fan of sautéed leeks as well as roasted, and at home, there’s likely to be a “root soup” on the table, made with leeks, celery root, beets, parsnips and potatoes.

Easily stored in the refrigerator in a plastic bag so they don’t dry out, freshly harvested leeks will keep for up to three weeks. If you happen to have leeks in your own garden, harvest them with the dirt still on the roots and store them in a cool place. They should keep for a month or two.

Local farmers markets

Fruit: apples, pears

Vegetables and herbs: arugula, basil, beans, beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, collards, chard, kale, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, mustard greens, peppers, potatoes, radishes, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, turnips, winter squash

From local reports

Leeks and Carrots

Hands on: 15 minutes

Total time: 35 minutes

Serves: 4

Lynne Sawicki of Decatur’s Sawicki's Meat Seafood and More created this recipe for a demonstration at the Morningside Farmers Market. This buttery combination makes a luscious side dish. Any leftovers can be added to bread crumbs to make a stuffing for a chicken breast or pork chop or become an addition to your next pot of chicken soup. Leeks can be sandy, and with all their layers, they’re difficult to clean.

Sawicki offered this tip for making sure your leeks are squeaky clean. Chop the leeks and add pieces to a large container of water, big enough for the leek pieces to float free of the bottom. Swish the leeks around, rubbing the pieces to get off the dirt and then let them sit for a few minutes. The dirt will sink to the bottom, and you can scoop your clean leek pieces off the top.

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

3 large leeks, white and pale green parts only, quartered lengthwise, cut into 1-inch pieces

Salt and pepper

1 pound carrots, peeled, cut on the diagonal into 1/2-inch pieces (about 7 carrots)

1 cup water

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

In a large skillet, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add leeks with a little salt and pepper and cook until leeks are softened, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in carrots, water and vinegar. Cook covered until carrots are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Once vegetables are cooked, remove cover and bring mixture to a boil to reduce cooking liquid to a syrup, 3 to 5 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Per serving: 187 calories (percent of calories from fat, 55), 2 grams protein, 20 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams fiber, 12 grams fat (7 grams saturated), 31 milligrams cholesterol, 50 milligrams sodium.