Rico's World Kitchen: Buford

It's best to call ahead at Rico's World Kitchen, for a couple of reasons. With only four tables inside, the eatery in the shadow of the Mall of Georgia gets packed. Then there's the chance the staff could be catering an event or holding a cooking demonstration in someone's home that could cause the Buford restaurant to stray from its hours. But those caveats aside, without owner Rico Cunnington's decision last April to bring his family's international cuisine to the masses, we would have been deprived of some of the best food we've had in Gwinnett County.

It's a small world

Our lunchtime visit on a recent Sunday was timed just before a surge of shoppers and the post-church crowd. The menu features food from various parts of the globe, and flags and photos from various countries are part of the decor. The crispy Filipino-style egg rolls, named Nett's Lumpia, after Cunnington's mother (who makes those and many of the menu items), are filled with spicy beef and pork in some and chicken in others. The thinly rolled appetizers come with a homemade sweet and sour dipping sauce. The salads are based on seasonal ingredients. The Asian pear salad dressed with balsamic vinaigrette and accompanied by chicken, brie and sugary toasted almonds is a dish we've already copied at home. Soups include a chocolate chicken chili, which wasn't available during our visit, but sounds good enough for a return. One special, shrimp and crab bisque, is a must, if offered. The fresh pieces of seafood don't get lost in the creamy broth, which is light and not overburdened by the Cajun spices.