The addition of Oyster Bay Seafood Cafe to the Lawrenceville Square continues a strong trend of unique eateries in this pedestrian hot spot. Steve Green and Greg Makler last October opened Oyster Bay, which does an excellent job of filling bellies with platters of crab legs, grouper, shrimp and other beachy fare in a casual setting that balances the bar crowd with an otherwise family atmosphere.
Vacation vibe
No water-related accessories appear to have gone ignored, from the fishing rods, paintings of boats and surfboards hanging on the walls to the anchor in the window and the mural of a beach dune that grabbed my 4-year-old son’s attention.
Neon signs lead diners in, where they sit at wooden booths and tables or at high-top tables and stools at the bar near the entrance. The deceptively large restaurant seats about 100. A painted palm tree sticks out from the top of the restaurant’s front sign, a beacon drawing people to the eatery sandwiched between an antique store and art gallery.
Back on the coast
The menu gives seafood lovers what they want, with items like Alaskan snow crab, crab cakes and raw or steamed oysters. Starters include the smoked fish dip ($5.50), a spread with crackers that’s the consistency of tuna salad and reminiscent of dips served at beachfront eateries. The pan-seared island crab cakes ($6.95 appetizer, also available as a sandwich or entrée) blend lump crab meat with panko breading and filler such as peppers that fortunately don’t overwhelm the sweet meat.
The grouper sandwich ($8.50) arrived fried instead of grilled as requested, but the breading didn’t mask the flavor of the flaky fish. The portion hangs over the roll, which was still large enough to keep the fish from slipping off the bun. Creamy cole slaw -- made of shredded cabbage and carrots -- and crispy fries are a better choice than the bland black beans and rice.
The shrimp in the Caesar salad ($8.95) are plentiful and perfectly grilled. Burgers, salads, pasta dishes and sandwiches round out the menu. The sloppy joe arrived how we like it -- with pickles and on a grilled bun -- and there was a hint of smokiness in the meat.
Drinks and desserts
There’s no skimping on the desserts, as the apple pie a la mode ($6.95), topped with both ice cream and whipped cream, almost toppled off the plate. The warm pie/cobbler concoction with sliced apples, pecans, caramel and cinnamon joins a brownie and key lime pie on the menu. The restaurant is working to add liquor to the beer and wine offered now.
DINING OUT
Oyster Bay Seafood Cafe, 125 Crogan St. Suite B, Lawrenceville 30046, 770-910-7521
Signature dish: Grouper sandwich
Entree prices: $6.50-$24.95
Hours: 11 a.m-9 p.m. Sundays, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Wednesdays, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Thursdays-Saturdays
Reservations: No
Credit cards: Yes
Online: oysterbaylawrenceville.com
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