Owner-chef says adios to restaurant Cuerno

"It really makes me sad, of course," he said of the restaurant's closing. "But I've got nothing to be ashamed of. It was a great restaurant with great food."

Opened in early 2008, just before the economy spiraled decisively downward, Ullio thought he was doing everything right. An enclave of Spanish cooking, the food — from talented young Ken Bouche (who just before the closing left to work in California) — was close to exquisite. Cuerno embodied the bohemian spirit of Barcelona, even if many of the dishes, such as paella, were from elsewhere.

And the food was marvelous. In some ways the menu was an introduction for those unfamiliar with Spanish dishes. But it rang authentic and true.

Dishes prepared la plancha (a griddle), from giant gambas (prawns) to pillowy scallops drenched in olive oil and garlic, as well as brandada, a tapas offering, and cochinillo confitado (pulled meat from a suckling pig roasted with apples and pistachios) were part of a gustatory tour of all things Spain.

The restaurant's style was laudable as well.

"It was a beautiful restaurant, with lots of stylish details," said Ullio. Indeed, the decor included a life-size metal bull from sculptor Thomas Prochnow that countered lacy baroque curtains.

Thick, weathered wooden beams crossed the ceiling and the bar was bedecked in studded leather. Antique Italian tiles accented the concrete walls.

"I was excited to open, but I was too proud," said the restaurateur. "I didn't listen to people who told me the location was not good — on a one-way street, with lots of parking issues. I thought the restaurant would speak for itself. It was a big mistake on my part."

So was it the recession or location that closed Cuerno?

I'm willing to bet it was more of the latter. Ullio's parking dilemma was no small issue. On Juniper, which is one way, you had to know that valet parking for the restaurant was two blocks away and across the street.

If you missed the valet parking the first time, you had to go down several blocks, turn left, then come up Piedmont and turn left again on 10th Street to get back to Juniper.

I made the mistake more than once, and it was a pain. But to me, it was worth it.

To other diners, it wasn't. I've often said that Escoffier could open a restaurant in Atlanta, but if he didn't offer complimentary valet, he could fuggedaboutit. Unlike New York, Los Angeles, Chicago — Atlanta is a city that doesn't want the hassle of finding a parking space. Cuerno offered the kind of upscale dining that would bring people into the city from the suburbs, but without an easy place to park, they weren't interested. It didn't matter how good the food was.

"The parking situation really ticked people off," Ullio said. He fought, and won, a few spaces on Juniper in front of the building. But it wasn't enough.

Now Ullio is focusing on Sotto Sotto and Fritti and says that Beleza, which has a strong after-hours following and a sensational cocktail list and is in the same building as Cuerno, is "holding its own for now." And plans are in the works for new ventures, though he won't say what just yet.

"It's a relief, really," said Ullio of the closing. "It was horrible to see such a beautiful restaurant almost empty most of the time." As for the fate of the bull sculpture, he's not sure. "I can't even get it out the door."