Restaurants in downtown Norcross have become popular destinations since the revitalizing area began attracting more eateries a few years ago. Mojitos Cuban-American Bistro is the newcomer on the block, with quality Cuban cuisine. The few dishes that don't fully succeed have potential, but are in need of a little more attention.
New to the block
Luis and Yanin Fernandez opened the restaurant in a former tea room last April, bringing some eclectic glamour to the casual dining setting through fixtures such as hanging lights that look like rhinestone-bejeweled snare drums. Picture windows provide views of the town's old depot and allow passersby to peek into the eatery. There's a piano and a small entertainment area as well.
The owners are still working out the kinks with the space and staff. Early in our meal, attempts to heat the front section of the restaurant where we were seated with a small floor heater resulted in darkness when a circuit breaker was tripped.
In addition to a few uncomfortable moments with our waitress, who wasn't completely familiar with the menu, we noticed some patrons having a brief wait when the hostess stand was ignored. On busy weekends such as Valentine's Day, they recommend reservations.
Cuban flavors
The turnover-shaped empanadas, filled with ground beef, onions and potatoes, quickly disappeared from the appetizer sampler, which also includes three crispy plantain cups, each filled with chunky guacamole, beef and shrimp, and the less appetizing deep-fried ham croquettes. The sauce accompanying the empanadas is spicy on the tongue.
The black bean soup is unsatisfying, as it is more like a cream of black bean, with the beans puréed into a light sauce.
The restaurant's namesake signature cocktail has just the right amount of lime, mint and sweetness.
Big plates and plaintains
Our Saturday early afternoon visit allowed us to take advantage of discounted lunch prices on a few entrees, but the portions remained sizable and filling.
The camarones enchilados, a saucy dish that resembles shrimp Creole, has the peppery flavors without being too spicy. The tender ropa vieja lacks any standout flavors and was overwhelmed by the bland tomato sauce. The mammoth stuffed rice casserole is layered with breaded chicken, yellow rice and mozzarella and Parmesan cheese. The crunchy empanizado, their version of a country fried steak, is so large it hangs off the plate.
The sliced fried maduros are made of plantains ripened to the point where extra ingredients like sugar aren't necessary to bring out their sweetness. Another version of plantains, the pancake-like tostones, are salty and crispy. Other sides include traditional black beans and rice.
The warm arroz con leche, a rice pudding sprinkled with cinnamon, is a comforting ending, especially on a cold day, while the pineapple custard — a twist on traditional flan — is sweet and refreshing.
AT A GLANCE
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Where:
35 S. Peachtree St., Norcross. 770-441-2599
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Signature dish:
Empanadas, pineapple custard
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Entrée prices:
$7.95-$15.95
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 1-9 p.m. Sunday
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Reservations:
Yes
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Credit cards:
Yes
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Online:
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