ITP. OTP. It's a rivalry of the ages (or maybe just the last 10 years). Whether inside or outside the perimeter, folks have some pretty strong feelings about where to eat. If you're looking for options outside the perimeter, here are some of the area's best. Please feel free to add more on my blog at www.ajc.com/tabletalk.
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28 W. Main St., Cartersville. 770-383-3535,
Chef Derek Morgan's eponymous restaurant in Cartersville is a welcome respite to the unyielding din of sameness two blocks away on U.S. 41. He uses exceptional ingredients and has a professional wait staff that could rival any inner city spot. What comes from the kitchen rarely disappoints, from a simple potato soup revved up with creamy Boursin to a pairing of pretties such as succulent duck confit with a fine display of mashed potatoes and seasonal veggies, or paring down calamari with mixed greens and bright ginger vinaigrette. His style is refined, not manipulated, and shows off his ample kitchen smarts.
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70 W. Crossville Road, Roswell. 770-993-1156,
Restaurateurs Chris and Michele Sedgwick have built an OTP dynasty of popular places — Aspen's, Vinny's, Theo's Brother's Bakery, Pure Taqueria and Van Gogh's. Consider Bistro VG their flagship, with a fresh take on modern French food (and the OTP essentials of wood-fired pizzas and pasta, of course). The rest of the menu is approachably French with lots of loose interpretation, from charcuterie plates of salami and prosciutto to offerings of pate with brown mustard and cornichons to tarte tatin. Look for their first ITP venture, Pure Taqueria, to open in Inman Park later this year.
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4600 W. Village Place, Smyrna. 678-309-1113,
Lime doesn't look like a taqueria, and the menu is clearly one that goes beyond small tacos and gorditas. Blimey, Lime isn't a taqueria at all. This is clear in the service, which is hardly the handout version you'd get at a small joint that serves tacos and other antojitos, and in the big, salty margaritas sloshing around in beautiful Mexican glassware. The menu offers a fun, yet serious, take on what's best about Mexican food: an array of tacos, tamales and rarely seen goodies such as asado de panela (a grilled cheese without the bread, served here with sweet, smoky, roasted poblanos) and little snacks such as gorditas.
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3165 Buford Highway, Duluth. 770-623-8569,
Attached to the Rexall Pharmacy, this old-fashioned, soda fountain-style meat-and-two is legend in Gwinnett for some of the best home cookin' found away from home. Lawdy, it's good: Fresh okra is hand-cut, dredged through cornmeal and lightly fried; macaroni and cheese will bring back memories of your mother's checkered apron strings. Ham, meatloaf — yes and yes. Cakes? How about homemade peanut butter (only on certain days, so call ahead of time or you'll be disappointed) or the chocolate fudge. And the coconut. Heck, try 'em all.
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6152 Roswell Road, Atlanta. 404-477-2100,
OK, Rumi's is barely outside the perimeter, but no one will spar over yardstick measurements once they taste the food. This Persian palace takes Atlantans beyond the buffet and into something that smacks of tradition. Ancient tradition. This food's got history: Mast khiyar (diced cucumbers with yogurt, raisins, walnuts and herbs) with fresh-from-the-oven flatbread, mirza ghasemi (roasted eggplant with tomatoes and garlic) and dolmeh (ground beef, rice and herbs rolled into grape leaves), as well as kebobs and Iranian stews like badenjoon, are staples of the varied menu.
Get into the conversation: Visit my blog at www.ajc.com/tabletalk. If your restaurant is new, closing or undergoing changes, or you have a food-related event, we want to hear from you. Send the information — including your name, phone number, e-mail and Web site if you have one — to mford@ajc.com.
KEY TO RATINGS
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Outstanding:
Sets the standard for fine dining in the region.
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Excellent:
One of the best in the Atlanta area.
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Very good:
Merits a drive if you're looking for this kind of dining.
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Good:
A worthy addition to its neighborhood, but food may be hit or miss.
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Fair:
The food is more miss than hit.
Restaurants that do not meet these criteria may be rated
Poor
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