First Look: NOCA, Roswell

Starters, soups and salads, $6-$15; entrees, $13-$31; sides, $6; desserts, $7.

1170 Canton St., 770-992-8866, http://nocaeatery.com.

NOCA, the new bar and restaurant from the creators of Roswell’s Zest Sushi Tapas Bar, recently opened in the former Indigo space on the quieter end of ever-busy Canton Street. The initials stand for North on Canton, and the contemporary American menu features fine dining comfort food in a relaxed setting.

The look: Like so many Roswell restaurants, NOCA is situated in what was once a single-family dwelling. The interior is divided between a cozy dining room that adjoins a semi-open kitchen and a large bar area with indoor and outdoor sections. The modern-rustic design mixes rough-hewn pine, pendant lamps and a variety of seating options, from cafe tables to high tops.

The scene: One recent evening, the flagstone patio, which is arranged around a gas fire pit, was packed with parties sipping cocktails and ordering dinner. Inside, in a rectangular alcove near the bar, a long banquet table decorated with balloons was the destination for a lively family birthday party.

The menu: Among the starters, find several seafood offerings, including mussels steamed with IPA and lemon grass ($13), crab croquettes with apple-chayote slaw and mustard beurre blanc ($13), and a tempura fried lobster tail ($15). That theme continues with entrees such as roasted salmon Oscar with crabmeat bearnaise sauce ($25), seared day boat scallops ($26), and seafood tagliatelle ($20). For carnivores, there are braised pork shoulder ($22), a 14-ounce rib-eye ($31), and bone-in beef short ribs ($24).

The drinks: The vodka-centered signature martini menu ($10) is big on sweet stuff. But "Dancing in the Rain," with organic cucumber vodka, St. Germain elderflower liqueur, prosecco and fresh cucumber, seemed to be a favorite of several women at the bar. The wine list includes a large selection of familiar labels by the glass in the $7-$14 range. Bell's Two Hearted Ale, Red Hare Long Day Lager, and Duck Rabbit Amber are among the recent craft beer offerings ($6).

The extras: On the concise dessert menu ($7), there's blueberry cobbler with ice cream, white chocolate bread pudding with strawberries and vanilla bean anglaise, and creme brulee.