First Look: HD1, Poncey Highland

HD1, the latest high/low concept from “Top Chef” winner Richard Blais and Atlanta restaurateur Barry Mills, is ostensibly a haute hot dog joint. But same as the duo’s Flip Burger Boutique, the sassy gastro menu and futuristic look combine to create quite a happening scene.

The look: Designed by the ai3 firm as a sort of postmodern beer hall, the North Highland Avenue building features a brick exterior and a soaring facade-meets-roof line fashioned from wooden slats. Inside, arty lighting, earth tones and wood and metal accents create a cool but cozy atmosphere. A row of communal tables and benches, flanked by booths and an extended bar, define the rectangular space.

The scene: A scrawled chalkboard menu near the entrance greets guests as they queue up at the fast casual-style order counter. Or, if there are seats available, you can opt for full service at the bar. On two different weekend nights, the bar and dining room were crowded and the music was loud, but the line moved surprisingly fast.

The menu: Offerings are divided into categories marked, "bits," "pieces," "stuff," "plates" and "sweets" --  though those things seem to overlap. Bits include the likes of popped sorghum grain ($2) and deviled ham in eggs ($3), while pieces include brisket chili with cool ranch oyster crackers ($3) and waffle fries with maple syrup ($3.50). A red hot chili dog with pepperjack cheese foam and Vidalia onion ($6) and a fennel sausage with San Marzano ketchup, fontina cheese and grilled radicchio ($6.50) are at the heart of the stuff.

The drinks: The New Fashion, made with Knob Creek bourbon, macerated blackberries, bitters and soda ($9), is one of the signature cocktails. The bargain-priced beer list has lots of canned treats, such as Avery IPA ($5), Dales's Pale ($4) and 21st Amendment Back in Black ($4). Retro sodas ($3) include Cheerwine, Nehi orange and A&W root beer.

The extras: Look for daily hot dog specials and a kicky assortment of soft serve ice cream flavors ($2) such as banana and caramelized rum or chocolate with red hot candies.

Dining out

HD1, Atlanta

11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-midnight Fridays-Saturdays.

Snacks and sides, $1.50-$6; hot dogs, sausages and sandwiches, $4.50-$10; plates, $7-$12; sweets, $2-$4.

664 North Highland Ave. N.E., Atlanta, hd1restaurant.com