First Look: Bangkok Station, Buckhead

550 Pharr Road, Suite 101, Atlanta. 404-343-4665, bangkokstationatlanta.com.

Bangkok Station opened in May in the 550 Building on Pharr Road in Buckhead, featuring a restaurant experience inspired by the railroad system of Thailand. On the menu of “Thai Innovations,” find selections from sections such as the “starter station,” the “curry station,” the “grilled station” and the “rice and noodle station.”

The look: With the 550 Building undergoing major renovations, what is a quirky concept appears even more so surrounded by an active construction zone. The park-like elevated patio, with its benches and umbrella tables, offers an oasis above the chaos. Inside the spacious L-shaped dining room, rough hewn-wood covers the bar top and tables, and extends up bark-like columns surrounded by cozy seats with cushions and pillows.

The scene: One recent muggy evening, the dining room was much more popular than the patio, with several family and large parties occupying long, banquet-style tables. More surprising was the steady stream of to-go orders being picked up at the bar.

The food: The menu is pitched toward fine dining, with entrees in the "first class station" of chef specialties topping out at $35 for Lobster Choo Chee Curry served with jasmine rice and sautéed haricot vert, broccoli and carrot. From the "starter station," the Bangkok summer roll ($8) is filled with avocado, basil, carrot, purple cabbage and cucumber and served with honey wasabi sauce. From the "grilled station," satay beef or chicken skewers ($9) are marinated in coconut milk, turmeric, roasted curry powder and Thai herbs, grilled, and served with peanut sauce and a raw cucumber and red onion "salad" skewer.

The drinks: On the drink menu, find fruity specialty cocktails ($12) such as the Love Ocean with dragon fruit vodka, lavender and passion fruit syrup, and lime, lychee and passion fruit juice. Oddly, there's a draft system behind the bar but no draft beer. Bottled selections ($5-$6) include Asian and Mexican light lagers, including Singha, and a few American craft offerings.

The extras: A lower-priced lunch menu ($8.95-$11.95) served 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday, with classic Thai entrees, such as Pad Thai and Massaman Curry.