Caribbean Fiesta

THE OFTEN BRUTAL TRAFFIC along Ga. 400 and many of its exits calls for a cerebral escape. You know, the old stand-by daydream of lounging with toes dug into the sand at some tropical retreat, basking in the warmth of the sun with steel drums tinkling in your ears. You may still be driving along an over-saturated landlocked piece of real estate, but hope resides nearby, at least in culinary form. Despite the lack of beachfront property, Caribbean Fiesta has the type of in-the-pocket island grub that'll transport mind and body elsewhere, if only for a meal.

PICK AND POINT: The vacation begins with a stroll up to the counter for cafeteria-style service. A case of cushy coconut bread and cheese rolls vie for attention along with steamy vats of escovitch fish, curried goat, ox tail, beef stew and more. Each meal comes with one meat and two sides. Just pick and point, and the server does the scooping. Our radar hones in on the boneless jerk chicken. Wonderfully tender, the meat pops with juiciness. And the spice is right: just enough to identify the dish you're devouring without having to chug an entire ginger beer in submission. The sweet and tangy teriyaki chicken and the succinctly fruity citrus chicken both receive solid honorable mentions.

SIDE WAYS: Ordering a helping of red beans and rice should be a requirement. Like the jerk chicken, it brings the right amount of piquancy without crossing the fiery line. The deep-fried plantains rock steady, each munch snapping with a sugary, banana-like blast. Indian influences sneak around the menu from sides of channa to orders of roti.