If you’re among the few of us left who actually lament the fall of fine dining in Atlanta, take heart: Aria will celebrate its 10th anniversary next month. The milestone is a testament to chef-owner Gerry Klaskala’s innate ability to direct a kitchen that, night after night, throws finesse into even the simplest of dishes, always striking a synchronistic chord between stylish and comfortable.
Burgers? Klaskala doesn’t even have one on his menu of seasonal classics that includes signatures the restaurant would simply be lost without. There’s not a taco within reach. And nothing resembling pizza — save for the fluffy rosemary-scented focaccia — is offered.
Klaskala’s seemingly effortless way with cooking is reminiscent of the French-inspired techniques so prevalent a decade ago, but what have become Aria’s characteristic gastronomic lexicon are, in truth, timeless. Like any good chef, he knows that good sourcing and solid technique make for good food — no gimmicks, no media catchphrases, no apologies.
From the neon orchid-from-outer-space chandelier to the bejeweled dog sculptures looming between Greek columns, well-schooled waiters (many who have been with the restaurant for years) dress in shirts that range, depending on the time of year, from Tommy Bahama to Texas Pete and make for an enduring experience.
But it is Klaskala’s charming enticements from the kitchen that truly satisfy. His soups have become city legend: Winter cauliflower is deeply layered with rustic tones of the hardy vegetable, crowned with wisps of crispy sage and tiny, buttery croutons of ciabatta.
Broccoli gets the same creamy, dignified treatment atop his warm butter-poached lobster cocktail, pristinely served in a martini glass layered with smooth whipped potatoes laced with black truffle. Simple, yet refined, it has remained a classic on a menu with as many mainstays as seasonal rotations — dishes with which regulars identify, and neophytes can’t wait to try again.
A dish of porcini mushroom ravioli is a dichotomy of flavor and texture; the pasta is so light and weightless it defies its own floury boundaries. Porcini mushrooms are enrobed in it, seeped with earthy flavor balanced with shiitake, black truffle butter and heady, tangy Parmigiano Reggiano.
Aria’s kitchen has a way with fish, and I rarely visit without delving into a dish of lemon sole — a delicate fillet with herbs and a crispy, brown butter crust that gives way to white tufts of flaky, moist fish. Sole is yet another classic throwback; a fish that never fails to impress when prepared properly even though more trendy kitchens have long forgotten its charms. A bed of tiny sugar snap peas, as well as snappy haricots verts, bits of smoky bacon and artichoke never make for too much.
Dining room and wine director Andres Loaiza has seamlessly dovetailed an excellent wine and beverage program with the kitchen, and he works the dining room the old-fashioned way, one table at a time. Servers here remember your name, your favorite cocktail and what you will order for dessert.
About dessert. Pastry chef Kathryn King has for years meshed her mind-altering creations in perfect sync with the kitchen, and she, too, has signatures that Aria simply would not be the same without: her dense disk of warm cheesecake, swirled with chocolate and layered with a walnut shortbread; or bright tangerine panna cotta, a vision of orange and white in a bowl, with faint hints of tang and cream combined to melt softly the minute a spoonful hits your mouth.
Fashions come and go; but true style is timeless. Think of Chanel’s little black dress. Think of great Scotch. And in Atlanta, think of Aria.
Aria
Overall rating:
Food: Contemporary American
Service: Excellent
Price range: $$$-$$$$
Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover
Hours of operation: Dinner, 6 to 10 p.m. Monday - Saturday
Best dishes: Lemon sole, porcini mushroom ravioli, warm lobster cocktail, filet mignon, tangerine panna cotta, warm chocolate cheesecake, caramel nut cake
Vegetarian selections: Beet salad with goat cheese, vegetables
Children: Older kids, yes; little ones will feel more comfortable in a less formal setting
Parking: Complimentary valet
Reservations: Yes
Wheelchair access: Yes
Smoking: No
Noise level: Medium
Patio: Yes
Takeout: Yes
Address, telephone: 490 E. Paces Ferry Road N.E., 404-233-7673
Web site: www.aria-atl.com
Pricing code: $$$$$ means more than $75; $$$$ means $75 and less; $$$ means $50 and less; $$ means $25 and less; $ means $15 and less. The price code represents a typical full-course meal for one excluding drinks.
Key to AJC ratings
Outstanding
Sets the standard for fine dining in the region.
Excellent
One of the best in the Atlanta area.
Very good
Merits a drive if you're looking for this kind of dining.
Good
A worthy addition to its neighborhood, but food may be hit and miss.
Fair
Food is more miss than hit.
Restaurants that do not meet these criteria may be rated Poor.
You can write your own review here .
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