Venturing into Amalfi Ristorante in Roswell feels something like listening to the music of Frank Sinatra. There’s a nostalgic sense of going back in time to a world that’s steady and straightforward, with a touch of romantic schmaltz.
Though it’s named for the Italian coastal town south of Naples, Amalfi could just as easily be in Sinatra’s hometown of Hoboken, N.J.
And like so many family-run red sauce restaurants, loyal regulars give the place a clubby feel that sometimes can be intimidating for newcomers.
White tablecloths
Previously known as Salvatore Trattoria, owner Salvatore Mattiello did some renovating a few years back that included a new name. But as the Web site now declares, “New name ... same family.”
There’s nothing fancy about the dining room, but it manages to convey an air of simple grace. Tables with crisp white tablecloths, sparkling stemware and votive candles, and a bit of art depicting the Italian coast set the mood, along with service that could be called friendly formal. Servers are quick to deliver warm bread and bowls of Parmesan olive oil and fetch plates of olives from the sideboard before taking orders.
Abbondanza
Mattiello’s aunt Anna Avino runs the kitchen, and her name shows up on several menu items. Avino’s Southern Italian cooking has that abbondanza sense of richness and abundance, and of course there isn’t any tricky fusion or deconstruction stuff going on.
Anna’s Famous Calamari Luciana is a big bowl of tender squid, lightly fried, then sautéd with bell peppers, onions and a spicy red sauce that gives it a zing similar to Buffalo wing sauce. Another signature dish, Vitello Alla Amalfi, is a corpulent melange of veal scaloppini, layered with fresh crab meat, garlicky sautéd spinach and melted fontina cheese.
Fish dishes include Grouper Napolitana, a delicate, egg-dipped and pan-fried filet that’s as big as the plate. It’s flavored with lemon, garlic and olive oil, and it’s served with breaded fried cauliflower and a potato croquette. Pasta dishes have a pleasing freshness, from a simple side of capellini with olive oil, garlic and parsley or spaghetti lightly tossed in a fresh tomato sauce and basil to the more substantial Penne Alla Amatriciana, sautéd with pancetta, onions, white wine and tomato sauce.
Homemade cannoli and ricotta cheesecake are among the classic dessert treats.
Convivial bar
Amalfi doesn’t take reservations.
But on busy nights, the large bar area makes a comfy, convivial place to grab a cocktail or a reasonably priced glass of Italian wine while you wait for a table.
In fact, you’ll probably meet quite a few neighborhood folks having drinks and dinner there.
Dining out
Amalfi Ristorante, 292 S. Atlanta St., 770-645-9983
Signature dish: Anna's Famous Calamari Luciana
Entree prices: $13-$20
Hours: 5:30-10:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5:30-11:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Closed Sundays.
Reservations: No
Credit cards: Yes
Online: www.amalfiatlanta.com
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