<a href="http://www.accessatlanta.com/dining/restaurants/149524/DetailedList.jspd?activity=149524">Holy Taco</a>
IS THE FOURTH TIME the charm? The East Atlanta Village building on Glenwood Avenue that was once home to Iris has since seen two bars (Crave and Haas) open and close in the past two years. Now comes Holy Taco, a restaurant/bar with a taqueria-style lunch and dinner menu and a decidedly laid-back vibe that seems a good fit for the neighborhood. But who knows? If it ain't burgers and beer, East Atlanta just might not buy it.
HOLY SCENE: Owner Robert McDonald — the former director of operations for Derek Lawford Pubs — says the taqueria concept seemed right to him, even with Cantina la Casita and Blue Frog Cantina so close by. One thing's for sure, Holy Taco has a winning atmosphere. The spacious patio has been made even more inviting with a series of light boxes around the perimeter, plantings of flowers, herbs and vegetables, and a pergola equipped with ceiling fans. Inside, the look is chic and spare, with multiple crosses covering the walls. And the L-shaped bar remains a convivial spot for regulars to gather for a drink and a snack.
TACOS AND TORTAS: Chef Robert Phalen (Alon's; Mumbo Jumbo; MidCity Cuisine) has put together an a la carte menu centered on tacos, quesadillas and tortas (Mexican sandwiches). Among those offerings, the tortas are perhaps the most unusual and satisfying. Choices include beef brisket, poached chicken, fried fish and pork belly, all served on an elegant, crusty, bolillo-like roll from Alon's. Grilled shrimp, topped with layers of lettuce, tomato, onion, pickled jalapeño and thinly sliced radishes, is a juicy delight. Tacos, which can be ordered on fresh, locally made corn tortillas, are bargain-priced, but the fillings tend to be a tad skimpy. Ditto the mini quesadillas.
APPS AND ENTREES: Phalen's appetizers are the most adventurous section of the menu, from shrimp cocktail in spicy 19th Hole Bloody Mary mix to Colombian corn cakes and fried rum chicken bites. Roasted corn on the cob, nicely charred and covered in a slick of sticky white cheese, will be even better in season. A chile relleno, fried-up in a delicately crispy coating, oozes a milky cheese filling, surrounded by a tasty tomato coulis. Avocado salad is a fresh melange of greens, pickled red onions, oven-roasted tomatoes, and sliced avocados in a creamy dressing. Entrees, served after 5 p.m., include grilled steak with beans and corn tortillas, and flautas stuffed with chicken. Garlicky, roasted Peruvian-style chicken comes in moist, brown-skinned hunks, with a side of veggie-dotted Mexican rice.
AGAVE GOODNESS: At the bar, the beer list reflects McDonald's English pub roots, with Tetley's and London Pride on draft, alongside Erdinger and Red Brick Blonde. But besides the usual Mexican lagers, there's also Dogfish Head 60 and Victory Golden Monkey in the bottle. The tasty, not-too-sweet, organic house margarita is made with Sauza Blanco, organic agave nectar and fresh lime juice.
Holy Taco, 1314 Glenwood Ave., East Atlanta, 404-230-6177
HOURS: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays-Wednesdays; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Thursdays-Saturdays (bar open later)
PRICES: Appetizers, soups and salads, $3-$6; tacos and quesadillas, $2.25-$3.50; tortas, $4.50-$4.75; dinner entrees, $8-$10
CREDIT CARDS: All major
RESERVATIONS: No
RECOMMENDED DISHES: Chile relleno, avocado salad, Peruvian-style roasted chicken, organic house margarita
PARKING: On site and street
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
SMOKING POLICY: Smoking on patio
NOISE LEVEL: Moderate to high
TAKEOUT: Yes
VERDICT: Latin food, margaritas and a great patio are a winning combo at this East Atlanta redo.
