Lunch lines are long at Pit Boss BBQ, but worth the wait when barbecue is what you crave.

Scan the worn, handwritten menu hanging above the counter and you’ll find a dizzying array of smoked meat options. But ordering doesn’t have to be complicated if you know the best bet.

<<RELATED: Take a food tour of Hapeville

The aptly named Best Bet Brisket Sandwich is the best way to enjoy the restaurant’s impressive pit-smoked brisket. A mix of rough-chopped fatty and lean chunks – an assortment of just-done pink bits and crunchy, brown burnt nibs – spill out the confines of the bun. Adding to the meaty mess is a layer of earthy, grilled Portobello mushroom slices covered with melted pepper jack cheese. Close your eyes when you take that first bite. Enjoy. Savor. Because you will make quick work of the rest.

The interior of Pit Boss BBQ in Hapeville.

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The Best Bet comes with a side. Of course, there are regular ‘cue companions like baked beans, mac and cheese and collards. But none compare to the fried green beans. Cut into bite-size sticks, then lightly battered and fried, they bring a satisfying crunch and not a bit of oil-drenched, greasiness. It’s one of those rare fried sides that reminds you there is actually a vegetable inside that batter. How can you turn best into best-est? Ask for some Ranch dressing for dipping.

Pit Boss BBQ husband-and-wife owners Wade and Tracy McSwain have been serving the Hapeville crowd for nearly 10 years now. They also run a takeout-only spot in Stockbridge, although come early September, best will soon be even better in Stockbridge when the McSwains open a full-service location at 250 East Atlanta Road.

Pit Boss BBQ, 856 Virginia Ave., Hapeville, 404-678-0036; and 6107 Highway 155 N., Stockbridge. 770-389-5125. Pitboss-bbq.com.

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