A new taqueria sneaked into Atlanta last year, opening two unexpected locations inside grocery stores. Loteria Grill hides in plain sight at the Whole Foods 365 stores in Buckhead and Decatur.

Loteria founder Jimmy Shaw was born in Mexico City, and opened his first taco stand at a Los Angeles farmers market. He then opened a series of Loteria Grills in L.A., and has a successful catering business alongside the restaurants. He now has expanded to Atlanta.

Don’t overlook these humble counter-service locations. The Breakfast Burrito a la Mexicana is an excellent example of the authenticity and flavor you can expect from Shaw.

In the Southwest, and on the West Coast, breakfast tacos and burritos are all-day staples. In Atlanta, they’re typically more limited in availability, but Loteria holds with West Coast tradition, and offers breakfast items from opening to closing.

Shaw’s simple breakfast burrito is as straightforward as it is flavorful, providing all the elements needed in the most important meal of the day, with a solid jolt of spice to wake you up. Protein is provided by tender scrambled eggs, with heft and flavor added by black beans, tomatoes, onions and serrano chiles. What puts the burrito over the top is the fluffy carb bomb known as papas con rajas — potatoes with roasted poblanos. The potatoes are so light and flavorful that they transform the burrito from a solid breakfast into an addictive dish that’s impossible to put down.

You might be eating this breakfast burrito in an Atlanta grocery store, but, close your eyes, and it’s not so hard to imagine you’re in that L.A. farmers market.

Loteria Grill. 3535 Northside Parkway NW, Atlanta. 404-400-2235. Also 1555 Church St., Decatur. 678-515-3119, loteriagrill.com.

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