Steak for lunch is a bit of an anachronism; it’s what you’d order with a couple of martinis in a smoke-filled dining room, a la “Mad Men.” Plus, the typical steak portion is so large, all you can do after eating one is go to sleep.
Still, steak cravings can hit at any time, and, when it's at lunchtime, it's worth dropping in to Roswell's well-loved Cuban joint, Lazaro's, for palomilla.
Bistec de palomilla is a traditional Cuban dish with thinly sliced steak, often sirloin, marinated in lime juice and garlic, and served smothered in fried onions. It’s a reminder that steak doesn’t have to be so serious. Eating palomilla at Lazaro’s feels more like attending a dinner party at a friend’s house than solemnly worshipping at the altar of beef at one of Atlanta’s many ultra-premium steakhouses.
Lazaro’s steak hits you first with a wave of lime; the tartness wakes up your taste buds, readying them for the savory flavors of tender steak, richly seasoned with garlic. The simply fried onions scattered over the top add sweetness and, just as importantly, a hominess that’s comforting. It’s steak for people who love food, rather than for people who obsess over steak.
Another benefit of ordering steak at Lazaro’s — it’ll cost you only $13.50 at lunchtime. With a little Cuban flair and a fair price, perhaps having steak for lunch isn’t as old-fashioned as it seems.
Lazaro’s Cuban Cuisine. 25 Woodstock Road, Roswell. 678-277–9661, lazaroscuisine.com.
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