Dolphins. Seagulls. Crabs. That’s the kind of wildlife one generally expects at the beach. But wild horses? Not so much. In North Carolina’s Outer Banks, a string of barrier islands dotted by quaint resort towns, Colonial Spanish mustangs are as much a part of the seascape as the undulating dunes. They have been around for centuries, and a highlight of any Outer Banks vacation is seeing them frolic in the mighty Atlantic surf.
Every beach town has sun and sand, but the Outer Banks offers a surprising number of attractions that can be found nowhere else.
The best way to see the horses in their natural habitat is to book an off-road tour. Corolla Outback Adventures loads passengers into an open, safari-style vehicle made for rugged, sandy terrain and heads to Corolla, a town near the Virginia border where bands of feral horses roam at the ocean’s edge.
A knowledgeable guide talks about the behaviors and habits of this genetically unique breed.
Each herd is divided into harems of three or four mares protected by a stallion. There’s a strict hierarchy in the harem, and every horse knows its place. The lead mare rules the roost, and her authority generally goes unchallenged. This venerable grand dame decides where the group will go and when. At a watering hole, the others stand respectfully aside so she can drink first.
The horses occasionally roll in the sand like frisky Labrador retrievers. No better way to get rid of those pesky black flies.
Outer Banks Lighthouses
The region’s 19th-century lighthouses are almost as famous as its horses and just as enchanting. These imposing sentinels of the sea were erected to help mariners navigate treacherous waters that for centuries ensnared unsuspecting vessels in the “Graveyard of the Atlantic.”
The Currituck Beach Lighthouse in Corolla, the northernmost lighthouse on the Outer Banks, was built in 1875 to illuminate a long, foreboding stretch between Bodie Island and Cape Henry, Virginia. The 158-foot red brick tower is unique because it’s the only major lighthouse in the mid-Atlantic that remains unpainted.
A spiral staircase with 220 steps takes visitors to the top for a sweeping view of the Atlantic. Along the way, they pass informative exhibits about maritime history in the Outer Banks. The lighthouse is still an active navigational aid.
The Bodie Island Light Station at the northern end of Cape Hatteras National Seashore is a boldly painted, black and white striped tower that soars 170 feet above the shoreline. It went into service in 1872 to prevent ships from running aground on the notorious Diamond Shoals, a cluster of shifting underwater sandbars considered one of the most perilous spots on the Atlantic Seaboard and the cause of hundreds of shipwrecks.
It’s one of the few lighthouses that has its original Fresnel lens.
The arduous climb to the top is well worth the prize, a panoramic view of undeveloped natural beaches and wetlands teeming with countless species of waterfowl.
Wright Brothers National Memorial
Another thing the Outer Banks has that no other beach destination in the world can claim is the Wright Brothers National Memorial in the town of Kill Devil Hills. It’s the site of the first successful powered flight, and it’s thrilling to stand in the spot where Orville and Wilbur’s revolutionary flying machine was launched in 1903.
A 60-foot granite memorial erected on a soaring sand dune commemorates the historic flight.
A replica of the aircraft is exhibited at the Visitors Center. Aviation enthusiasts gather around while a park ranger provides an entertaining, kid-friendly lecture on the obstacles the Wrights faced and how they overcame them. Many visitors are incredulous that the pilot had to lay belly-down across the wing surface to steer the contraption.
Exhibits tell how the brothers left their bicycle manufacturing and repair business in Dayton, Ohio, and came to North Carolina determined to realize their dream of flight. Kitty Hawk was chosen as a testing ground because it offered wide open spaces, steady wind, sand for soft landings and isolation. From 1900-1903, the ambitious pair put their aeronautical theories to the test by experimenting with a series of gliders, making more than 1,000 flights and learning from each one.
Visitors can tour a replica of the camp where the innovative brothers worked on their research and honed the skills that would make them famous.
Outer Banks Distilling
Rum lovers are lining up to participate in the “Molasses to Glasses” tour of Outer Banks Distilling, producers of Kill Devil Rum. This craft distillery was opened only last year by four guys who knew the beer-brewing industry, but also had a passion for rum, which is enjoying a resurgence.
In the 17th century, rum was known as “Kill Devil,” and with Kill Devil Hills nearby it seemed natural to open a distillery, playing on local stories about barrels of the spirit that frequently washed ashore following shipwrecks.
The vile liquor once swilled by pirates is now in vogue. Of course, the smooth rum at Outer Banks Distilling is far more palatable than the stuff Blackbeard imbibed.
A tour traces the rum-making process from the pre-treatment of molasses, the raw ingredient for rum, through fermentation and distillation. Rum enthusiasts can even see how the liquor is infused with rich pecan and honey flavors, which prime the palate for the post-tour tasting.
It’s the perfect finale to an Outer Banks getaway.
Where to Stay
Sanderling Resort - 1461 Duck Road, Duck, N.C., (855) 412)-7866, sanderling-resort.com
Where to Eat
Kimball’s Kitchen is Sanderling Resort’s upscale steak and seafood restaurant that offers a spectacular view of Currituck Sound.
Activities
Corolla Outback Adventures – 1150 Ocean Trail, Corolla, N.C., (252) 453-4484, corollaoutback.com
Currituck Beach Lighthouse – 1101 Corolla Village Road, Corolla, N.C., (252) 453-4939, currituckbeachlight.com
Bodie Island Lighthouse - 8210 Bodie Island Light House Road, Nags Head, N.C., (252) 473-2111, nps.gov/caha
Wright Brothers National Memorial – 1000 N. Croatan Highway, Kill Devil Hills, (252) 441-7430, nps.gov/wrbr,
Outer Banks Distilling – 510 Budleigh St., Manteo, N.C., (252) 423-3011, outerbanksdistilling.com
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